Take a peak at any fashion editor’s Notes app during a runway and you’ll see a word salad of nonsensical references: fluffy, whimsical, sharp. BDSM P.E teacher. Lizzie McGuire Missoni princess. But for the beauty-obsessed editors like myself, the notes are generally on the makeup, and almost always include the words ‘dewy’ and ‘skin’.
Glistening runway skin is a real art form, mastered by makeup artists who each have their preferred methods. In my years backstage, I’ve observed that the ‘effortless glow’ the models exude comes not from sleep and water, but a bespoke mix of strobing creams, illuminating primers, face gloss and the tiniest amounts of concealer, applied expertly.
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After witnessing some of the incredible beauty looks at this year’s PayPal Melbourne Fashion Festival – both the Independent Program and Premium Runways – I was curious to know what magic formulas were happening backstage. So I asked two beauty directors involved to share their secrets for skin prep. Take notes!
Eve Louise Gale
Beauty director for Cakey Sportsman and Attend To It independent runways
What was the beauty vision for the Cakey Sportsman runway?
Matea Gluščević is a visionary, the designs of Cakey Sportsman speak for themselves, I just wanted to accompany that. Through her collection, Matea is taking us through a journey of metamorphosis, it was important to match that authenticity with the beauty.
We added vibrant pops of colour on the lips and cheeks, as well as differing textures and line work to ground the looks in the whimsical world of Cakey. Natural skin shone through, with a less is more approach when it came to coverage: freckles, pigmentation and redness were welcomed and became a part of the makeup. Each model’s makeup was different and unique to the others, but the radiant breathable skin stayed the same.
What about the Attend To It group runway?
Since Attend To It was a collection of seven emerging and local designers, we needed a look that could work for the whole showcase.
The curation of garments by It’s My Roomates focuses on unique details and textural experience, so a pared-back natural dewy look was the go. We opted for light coverage with soft hints of blush on the cheeks and lips. Undetectable neutral tones and no mascara. Staying cohesive through each designers collection.
What products did you use to prep model’s skin for these looks?
The amount of complexion product used was minimal so the skin prep mattered even more. Unlike what we’re often told, models’ skin is more likely to be dehydrated and exhausted from constantly working with so many changes to their routine.
First I used the Charlotte Tilbury Glow Toner to gently slough off dead skin and add moisture, followed by M.A.C Hyper Real SkinCanvas Balm, it works so well to hydrate and prime skin for makeup, no matter the skin type. When dealing with dryness and extra absorbent skin, I use the Bobbi Brown Vitamin Enriched Serum combined with the SkinCanvas Balm.
I reach for these three priming products most often: By Terry Brightening CC Serum for an ethereal glow from within – it comes in eight shades of different undertones to even out and correct. When I don’t want shimmer but still want a glow, I go for the M.A.C Studio Radiance primer. For a mattifying alternative, I use the Veil Mineral primer from Hourglass.
What makeup products did you use on the skin?
For makeup, I’m sticking to skincare-infused formulas: Nars Light Reflecting foundation and Glossier Stretch Balm concealer for light to buildable, hydrating coverage that looks like skin. The Kevyn Aucoin colour stick in shade ‘Blooming’ is a gorgeous rich red that can be used on every complexion, it melts into the skin like a rouge from within.
I made a decision to not use any powders. If you were at the shows, you know just how hot it was. Everyone was dealing with some perspiration, me included, and having the makeup un-set allowed me to touch up later without patchiness.
Lara Zrokowski
Beauty Director for Lancôme, the official makeup partner of PayPal Melbourne Fashion Festival
What was the beauty vision for the opening night premium runway?
For the opening night beauty look, my aim was to elevate the models’ natural beauty, allowing their skin to be the focal point of the look. I wanted to achieve a luminous, radiant complexion that glistened when the models hit the runway. I wanted the skin to look healthy and hydrated, so skincare preparation was the key to achieving this look.
What products did you and the team use to achieve this look?
To achieve this look, we started with a three step skincare routine. Beautiful makeup always starts with the beauty of the skin. We started with Genifique Ultimate serum, which is enriched with beta-glucans and hyaluronic acid to provide a healthy, hydrated complexion. We followed with Lancôme’s signature three in-one-serum, Renergie for extra hydration and glow, finishing with Genifique Light Pearl around the eye contour.
To achieve a natural-looking base, we used Teint Idole Ultra Wear foundation mixed with a drop of Genifique Ultimate serum. I wanted to keep the skin looking really glossy, so for blush we used the Butter Glow lipstick in shade 50 on the cheeks, using the same shade on the lip. Lashes were also a focus, using the new Idole Flutter mascara for the illusion of elongated, separated, and perfectly flared lashes.
Do you have any other tips for skin prep?
One of my favourite beauty hacks for backstage is to apply a small amount of Genifique Ultimate to the high points of the face, just before the models hit the runway. This adds an extra boost of luminosity and keeps the skin looking glass-like and glossy.
For more inspiring runway beauty, head here.
This article Two makeup artists share how they prep models’ skin for a runway appeared first on Fashion Journal.
2025-03-04 11:40:00
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