The Sportmax Fall Winter 25 show was architecture in motion

Milan, a city where the past and present are in constant dialogue, set the stage for the Sportmax fall winter 25 collection. Since its inception in 1969, the house has built its legacy on reinvention, moving with the times while never losing sight of its core tenets: structure, sensuality, and a deep reverence for craftsmanship. This season, those pillars came together in a collection that felt as intellectual as it was instinctive, a vision of modern dressing where motion and precision exist together.

The opening look set the tone: sculptural double-faced wool coats, their volumes engineered with exacting softness, neither restrictive nor overwrought. These were not just outerwear pieces but felt like a form of armour, imbued with quiet power, and tailored for movement. Drapery and discipline wove together in a slight trompe l’oeil interplay– an effect we see quite a bit in Schiparelli, as wool woven with advanced techniques, disrupted expectations, marrying the raw with the refined. Sportmax has long understood transformative potential between materials, and this season, it resurfaced with a knowing modernity between the leather and wool.

Texture also played a leading role in this collection. Glossed faux-fur coats, with the illusion of crocodile jacquard, skimmed against knitwear. The leather throughout, sometimes supple, sometimes stamped with python textures, was treated with an architect’s precision, manipulated into shapes both fluid and formidable. A seamless, fully-fashioned knit suit emerged as an alternative approach to power dressing, eschewing rigidity in favour of sculptural elegance.

Silhouettes, too, embodied contradiction, where the tailoring oscillated between sharp and soft, oversized and hyper-feminine, as blazers and trousers redefined suiting for a new era. Shapes appeared almost uninterrupted, flowing like a single gesture of fabric, expanding and contracting with the body’s every move.

The fringe that appeared as a dominant style, was an embellishment but at most an intrinsic detail integrated into the fabric, tracing the edges of coats, skirts, and scarves with an understated elegance. This sense of fluidity was further adopted in the accessories. Leather fringe bags, generously proportioned, while the bags returned in a high-shine, python-embossed finish. Where for the shoes, ergonomic heels, boots and flats all in leather with gloss finish, felt entirely wearable and timeless.

It was all in the detail, in the interplay between past and future, between the tactile and the ethereal. Sportmax’s fall winter 25 collection was, ultimately, a statement on transformation, pieces designed not just to be worn, but to move with the women who shape it.