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Menswear Maestro Mark Cho on 10 a.m. Cigars, Collecting Watches, and Dressing for ‘Casual Mode’

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Menswear Maestro Mark Cho on 10 a.m. Cigars, Collecting Watches, and Dressing for ‘Casual Mode’
Cigars—a frequent morning ritual.
Ken Wu

For 36 years, Véronique Nichanian has supplied the exacting creative vision for the storied French house’s menswear. Her secret: navigating the space between fashion and style. 

There are six large jars in Véronique Nichanians office, lined up in a row near her desk, where, during idle moments, she can look up and ponder their contents. Theyre stuffed with brightly coloured bits of fabric—one has various shades of blue, another yellows, the next greens. Theyre mood jars, of sorts. Nichanian is obsessed with textiles and colour, and these vessels, she says, have been with her for years. She pulls a clump of thread from one as if its a jewel, and in a sense, it is. If these are the palettes that excite her—a woman with immaculate taste, a fastidious eye and ranging curiosity, who has remained perched atop the menswear tree for nearly four decades at one of Frances finest luxury maisons—then they are special stuff indeed. 

Nichanian is artistic director of the Hermès mens universe, a bombastic title with a somewhat more prosaic explanation, which is that she oversees all the menswear stuff—clothes, bags, shoes, accessories and the like. But its how she has done this that intrigues. Shes been dressing chic Parisian males and their counterparts around the globe for 36 years and is the longest-serving creative director in fashion who doesnt have her name above the shop. Only the Ralphs and the Giorgios have been designing in one place for longer. 

Menswear Maestro Mark Cho on 10 a.m. Cigars, Collecting Watches, and Dressing for ‘Casual Mode’
Behind the scenes at the Hermès spring ’25 presentation, held at the Palais d’Iena in June.
Alfredo Piola

But in a sense, Nichanian has also done what theyve done. When she was appointed by Hermès to take over its menswear division back in 1988, the brand was in the midst of a reinvention by Jean-Louis Dumas, great-great-grandson of founder Thierry Hermès, and was not the pinnacle of aspiration that it is today. Nichanian didnt lay the foundation at Hermès, but she can claim to have built the temple of its contemporary menswear business brick by brick, starting at a time before GPS, Pretty Woman and the World Wide Web. 

She has done it with a keen understanding of what fashionable men want. Im so demanding when working on the clothes,” she says. Its not my job to make fashion and a beautiful photo,” she adds, alluding to the elaborate ad campaigns that punctuate the conversation multiple times a year at other labels. A beautiful fashion photo does not mean beautiful clothes.” 

Menswear Maestro Mark Cho on 10 a.m. Cigars, Collecting Watches, and Dressing for ‘Casual Mode’
Looks from Hermès’s spring ’25 menswear collection.
Alfredo Piola

Every morning, on the walk to her office inside company headquarters, Nichanian passes glassed-in workshops through which she can see artisans manipulating the famous Hermès leather, using tools and blades as much as machines to do so. Natural light floods the workspaces; once the light goes, I was told, the workers knock off for the day. What I like about Hermès is its a house thats very open-minded, where the craft is seen, where things are done by the hand,” she says. 

As a designer, Im totally free to do what I want—theres no marketing person, nobody telling me I have to do some ties or shoes,” she continues. At Hermès, I express a modern way for a man to dress. He likes beautiful things, beautiful material. And he understands why its costly. Its not expensive—were not talking about price. I choose the best material, the best cashmere and the best manufacturer, and at the end of that, its costly. But not because I put a big logo on it. And I like this man because he understands that. He knows himself.” 

Hermès is most famous for its ornate silk scarves and handbags so scarce and desirable they can sell on the secondary market for hundreds of thousands. But certain menswear items deserve equal billing. Under Nichanian, the houses leatherwear has become essential, and I admit to spending far more time than strictly necessary trying on a silky taupe-gray suede overshirt in the Paris store beneath its headquarters on Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. The label has been lauded in these pages (its won multiple Best of the Best awards) for both its outerwear and bags, but the quality of fabrication of its knitwear and shirting is equally strong. 

Menswear Maestro Mark Cho on 10 a.m. Cigars, Collecting Watches, and Dressing for ‘Casual Mode’
Nichanian has her hand in every aspect of the Hermès menswear universe, from the coveted outerwear and bags to the exemplary ready-to-wear.
Alfredo Piola

Hermès is a very French house,” Nichanian says. “The sophistication I have, its very Parisian. Its very sophisticated how the French man puts things together. But since the beginning, its a casual house. I know how to do a beautiful suit, but what is very difficult is to define the way to dress casual and very chic. I dont want to be classical or traditional, and I dont want to be fashion at all. I want to be on the verge.” 

A pile of iconic orange Hermès boxes provides a splash of colour in a corner of her office; behind the door, on a wall, theres a collage of photographs of famous friends: French president Emmanuel Macron; a number of young sportsmen; and a familiar face from the art world—David Hockney. Yes, that was a big meeting,” she says with a smile. Hes really funny. I asked him, which I never asked anybody in my life, Can we make a picture together?When I came back, I designed a sweater and sent it to him.” The picture is of the artist, with a striped cashmere rugby shirt, looking absolutely delighted. 

For many of us, wardrobe MVPs come in navy, gray, white and black. But the Hermès man is often to be seen sporting pops of colour that add interest without overwhelming—a striped belt, say, or an accent on a collar or hem. For spring-summer 25, which showed in Paris a few days before our conversation, Nichanian sent out a procession of complementary, youthful separates that epitomise casual chic. Short-sleeve shirts in an openwork cotton knit with contrasting collar and placket matched with roomy straight-legged pants. A cocoa blouson in a pique canvas over light-blue cotton drill trousers. Simple but elegant shirting and a number of exquisite leather jackets, one in ecru calfskin, another in a barely-there blue glacier. With Hermès, the details are all-important—the proportions of the collar, the extended shoulder that provides the drape. Easy to miss but integral to the effect. 

Menswear Maestro Mark Cho on 10 a.m. Cigars, Collecting Watches, and Dressing for ‘Casual Mode’
More behind the scenes at the Hermès spring ’25 presentation.
Alfredo Piola

Nichanian prides herself on such minutiae, designed to make a statement to no one other than the wearer. I want to make selfish clothes,” she says. When you touch them and feel the material, you say, Oh, my God’. That feeling is for you first.” Shes talking about up-close aspects such as a pocket indulgently lined with lambskin or a seemingly regular cotton-poplin shirt with the hand feel of silk. Or take the sweatshirt, shirt and T-shirt that opened this collections show, featuring what looked like an artists pencil sketch of a horse. The catch: all the garments are made of calfskin, and the lines seem almost rubberised to the touch. 

The designers other favourites include shirts, shorts, pants and bombers featuring Hermès iconic LInstruction du Roy” print of equestrian details and floral motifs, penned last century by designer Henri dOrigny and made famous on its silk scarves. The theme of this section was an evening beach party, and the twist was that the graphic print ran off the clothing and appeared tattooed onto the chests, arms and legs of the models. You could see it as the sartorial equivalent of the inside-outside movement in interior design, as the dialogue between the body and the clothes you wear becomes more integrated and fluid. The tattoos were temporary, of course, and Nichanian tried one herself before subjecting the models to them. It stayed for five days,” she says, impressed. (And no, theyre not for sale.) 

Menswear Maestro Mark Cho on 10 a.m. Cigars, Collecting Watches, and Dressing for ‘Casual Mode’
raphic and embroidered design details featured on the latest menswear pieces.
Alfredo Piola

She says she still gets nervous before a show, because each collection is the manifestation of a particular idea, and capturing the essence of that idea never gets easier. The difficult point is to know when to stop—with so many ideas, you can make many different shows,” she says with a rueful smile. So you have to say, Okay, I want to say that’. And this is my starting point, and this is exactly the collection I have in my head. Sometimes I know exactly what I want to do since the beginning. But sometimes I change my mind: a week before one show, I said were going to change the ending. Theres not a recette, as we say in French—a recipe.

Nichianian is 70, not that youd guess it. Petite and elegant in a simple black-and-white outfit with funky accessories, she has a quiet intensity but eyes that smile often. She speaks English in a thick accent, with an occasional, rapid burst of her native tongue to make a larger point. 

I said to my parents when I was 15, ‘I want to work with clothes.She studied at Pariss elite École de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture, where she graduated top of her class, then joined Nino Cerruti as a stylist on his menswear line. Cerruti is credited with helping define the Italian tailoring tradition of a lighter, looser silhouette, and his take influenced many—not least Giorgio Armani, who was there in the 60s. At Cerruti, Nichanian developed her love of tailoring and particularly of cloth, partnering with Italian mills to refine their materials to her standards. I remember when I started working, the fabrics were so heavy and everything was so stiff,” she says. She eventually left to join Hermès, enticed by the promise that she could make menswear according to her own vision. Thirty-six years later, that vision remains. 

Menswear Maestro Mark Cho on 10 a.m. Cigars, Collecting Watches, and Dressing for ‘Casual Mode’
Nichanian has been a fabric specialist since joining Nino Cerruti fresh out of design school in the late ’70s.
Alfredo Piola

She has a small team of eight, some of whom have been with her for 10 or 15 years. Is she a good boss? Well, she says, she knows her team likes to work with her because they write to me and say, We dont want to be with Hermès, we want to be with you.’ And I love that.” 

She describes the office environment as very democratic”, despite her strong instincts. We discuss. And sometimes I say, Yes, youre right, I was wrong. Lets make it different.’ When I know what I want, I go straight. But when I ask my team, I follow their advice.” 

Younger members hit the clubs of the French capital, for which shes grateful, as while shes not interested in following trends, she does want to remain au courant. This is not my life anymore, going to a party every night,” she says. (She prefers the cinema.) So I say, Okay, whats going on?’ And when I travel, to Japan or New York or LA, I bring two of them each time, and its fun. I have the maturity. I know exactly what Hermès is because I built it for 36 years. But working together, theyre listening to me, I listen to them. The world is changing very fast, and I like that. Its very exciting.” 

Menswear Maestro Mark Cho on 10 a.m. Cigars, Collecting Watches, and Dressing for ‘Casual Mode’
Behind the scenes close-ups.
Alfredo Piola

There must be a temptation to put her feet up, to spend more time with her husband at their house in the South of France? She says no. Im very proud to have good reviews and good sales after 36 years. So I will continue. If Im bored—it could happen tomorrow or in 10 years—I will say, Okay, lets do something different.’ I don’t have a plan. Im never looking back, because I think its sad, and I dont have any regrets. Im very happy in my life. As a creative person, working at Hermès is a dream—and its the dream of many people outside. So Ill let you know.” 

A Brief Chronology of Hermè

Menswear Maestro Mark Cho on 10 a.m. Cigars, Collecting Watches, and Dressing for ‘Casual Mode’

1837: Thierry Hermès moves to Paris and founds his harness-making workshop. 

1853-70: The citys new wide boulevards, designed by Baron Haussmann, enable Parisians to parade around in their finery and show off their elaborate carriages, which is very good for business. 

1880: Thierrys son, Charles-Émile, adds saddles to the mix and moves the store and workshop to the now-iconic address of 24 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré

1902: Customers request something to carry their saddles and riding boots, and the Haut à Courroies bag is born, along with the brand as we know it today. 

1916: Émile, one of Charles-Émiles sons, visits North America, where hes introduced to the zipper (then called the close-all) and sees the future. Émile secures an exclusive license in France, where the invention is dubbed the Hermès fastener. Seven years later, the company files a patent for the use of zippers in leather goods. 

1925: After a client reportedly complains, I am fed up with seeing my horse better dressed than me,” Hermès creates its first mens ready-to-wear garment—a golf jacket. 

1928: Watches are added to the growing array of goods. 

1930: Hermès enters the US market in partnership with Neiman Marcus

Menswear Maestro Mark Cho on 10 a.m. Cigars, Collecting Watches, and Dressing for ‘Casual Mode’
Getty Images

1942: The soon-to-be-iconic Hermès orange box is introduced. 

1949: The atelier produces its first tie. 

1967: The H-belt, which will come to encircle the waists of the worlds best-dressed men, arrives. 

1977: In a possibly apocryphal story, consultants recommend that Hermès follow the Gucci model: close the atelier and lower the price point. In response, Hermès institutes a company-wide ban on consultants, said to be enforced to this day. 

Menswear Maestro Mark Cho on 10 a.m. Cigars, Collecting Watches, and Dressing for ‘Casual Mode’
Courtesy of Hermès

2015: The Apple Watch Hermès is announced. 

Menswear Maestro Mark Cho on 10 a.m. Cigars, Collecting Watches, and Dressing for ‘Casual Mode’
Inter of the Hermès store on Collins Street, Melbourne by TobyScott.jpg

2024: With the reopening of the Melbourne, Australia, store, Hermès has 303 shops in 45 countries—and counting. 

2024-12-23 02:16:00

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