Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2025 Runway Review

AS NICHOLAS GHESQUIÉRE observes, train stations are unlike most places. Both time and emotion mutate: a fifteen-minute wait can either liquidate or feel twice its length, we experience the melancholy of goodbyes and the joy of greetings on the same concrete stretch. For Louis Vuitton’s women’s fall/winter 2025 runway held at L’Etoile du Nord in Paris, it’s what lies at the nucleus of a train station that intrigues Ghesquière: sonder. For the collection, Ghesquière leans into the “rush of anonymous feelings” and “fleeting moments are shared amongst strangers” to showcase Louis Vuitton’s cast of travelling characters for this season.

Against a trompe-l’œil train station designed by Es Devlin, the show opened with the sound of engines roaring to life. Per the show notes, the collection sought to capture “the euphoria of discovery” associated with travel. A common theme was an aversion to trends and subversion of classic travel staples: sheer rubber trench coats settled over leather cargo shorts and floral blouses in a smoky haze akin to that emitted by coal-powered trains. We see musicians flitting off to their recitals, carrying violin cases and fur-trimmed coats that sway with each stride. Traditional vacationers shoulder weekender bags showing off the iconic LV monogram print alongside velvety dresses and a revival of 2010s waist belts. Some looks engage more directly with the temporality of the train station, with certain ensembles appearing haphazardly thrown together in efforts to catch the train on time: trapezoidal capes to disguise whatever is underneath, loose knits clash with long, fluttering skirts.

Cohesion naturally wanes when mimicking the kaleidoscopic chaos of concourse style. Still, certain motifs confidently emerged: Knee-high socks brought a junior slant to crystal embellishments glittering atop knit dresses; and lino cut-style prints on outer pieces offered a sporty, retro flair. The accessory of the show was undoubtedly Ghesquière’s vivid parade of hats. From wide-brims to buckets that sat so low they hid the models’ eyes, it seems Ghesquière’s travellers are well-equipped for any turn of weather. The makeup looks were also varied, going from seemingly bare-faced models to a Rorschach of oranges and cyan that hint at the Maison’s forthcoming beauty label, La Beauté Louis Vuitton, helmed by the inimitable Pat McGrath.

Above all, the show was a memorable nod to the House’s roots in luxury travel gear. During the finale, the models mounted the constructed balconies to peer down at the guests à la Gigli’s 1960 Girls in the Windows. Looking up at them, you can’t help but wonder, who are they? And, with a quick assessment of their garb — where could they be going?

Watch the full show below.