Lauren Di Bartolo is a fashion stylist and human behaviour expert based in Melbourne. An industry innovator and founder of Australian Style Institute, she has spent decades observing the relationship between people and their clothes. She’s a regular contributor to Fashion Journal, answering our burning style questions in her fortnightly column.
Most of us don’t wake up thinking: ‘What am I signalling today?’ But we should, because whether we’re conscious of it or not, our clothes are speaking for us long before we say a word.
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In the world of human behaviour, signalling refers to the ways we communicate non-verbally, through cues, symbols, or behaviours that suggest who we are, what we value, and where we fit in. And in the fast-paced world we live in, where judgments are made in milliseconds, what we wear becomes a kind of social shorthand.
In fashion’s case, it’s our wardrobe. It’s not about vanity or superficiality – it’s about identity, belonging, and influence. After all, fashion is a visual language. Before we’re introduced to someone, our clothes are already telling a story and it’s up to us to make sure it’s one we actually want told.
In my work, I’ve seen so many people struggle with misaligned signals, telling me how they constantly feel misunderstood. While we can’t control every interpretation, we can take ownership of what we project.
What is signalling, exactly?
Signalling is a concept rooted in evolutionary biology and economics, but it’s just as relevant in fashion. At its core, signalling is the act of conveying information about yourself to others, intentionally or not.
We do it all the time: a luxury watch might signal success, activewear outside the gym might convey good health and discipline, minimalism might signal taste, and excess might signal influence. Even not caring about fashion is a signal, one that often says, ‘I don’t need to try’ or ‘I exist outside the system’.
In fashion, signalling manifests through everything from luxury logos to niche aesthetics projected through brands, colour, silhouette, logos, and the way we pull ourselves together (or don’t). Sometimes they’re discrete in brand but loud in what they represent, for example a micro-fine, narrow, and evenly spaced pleat says ‘Issey Miyake’ to a fashion or textile enthusiast, but ‘pants’ to someone else. But always, they say something.
Stereotypes and self-expression in fashion
Here’s where it gets interesting, and uncomfortable. Many of the assumptions we make about people based on their appearance aren’t just random judgments. They’re stereotypes we’ve absorbed through culture, media, and personal experience. And whether we like it or not, those stereotypes often contain signals people consciously or subconsciously respond to.
Think of someone wearing head-to-toe designer, there’s a signal of wealth or status (or the desire to project it). Someone wearing a vintage band T-shirt might signal creativity. Sharp tailoring signals professionalism. Soft textures and neutral palettes? Approachability.
Do those signals always match the person? No. But often, they attract what they signal for, and repel what they don’t. Style isn’t just self-expression, it’s social strategy. We dress not only for who we are, but for who we want to be seen as. And that’s not superficial, it’s smart.
When the signal isn’t serving you
The danger in unconscious signalling is that it can start working against you. Clients often come to me frustrated that they’re not being taken seriously in their industry, or that they’re attracting the wrong type of client, or that they feel invisible in a crowd. Most of the time, their style is unintentionally sending a different message than the one they want to convey.
For example, a stylist trying to attract high-end editorial work, who dresses in overly casual pieces might be undermining their credibility. A corporate leader craving creativity might find that their overly-conservative wardrobe is holding them back from expressing innovation. We can’t control how everyone interprets our signals, but we can learn to send clearer ones.
How to signal with intention
As sociologist Malcolm Barnard puts it in Fashion as Communication, “Fashion is part of the process by which people make sense of themselves and others.” It’s not frivolous. It’s semiotics. Saying clothes shouldn’t matter is like saying tone doesn’t matter in conversation. It’s not just what you say, it’s how you say it.
1. Know what you want to say.
Ask yourself: ‘What do I want to be known for? And does my wardrobe align with that?’ Whether you’re building a business, shifting careers, or stepping into a new version of yourself, your style should signal the same.
2. Curate, don’t costume
Signalling isn’t about dressing like someone else, it’s about amplifying the most powerful and authentic parts of yourself. If your style feels disconnected from who you are, the signal will feel forced.
3. Be aware of your ‘uniform’.
We all have one, the default look we return to again and again. Ask yourself what it says about you, and whether it’s communicating the right message.
4. Accept that your signals will attract and repel.
And that’s the point. You’re not meant to be for everyone. Great style refines your presence, it doesn’t dilute it.
But isn’t that superficial?
It’s a common criticism I hear (“Isn’t caring about fashion shallow?”) but the reality is, we’re visual creatures. Judgments are made within seconds and fashion is one of our most immediate communication tools. If you’re feeling misunderstood, misaligned, or even overlooked, start by checking your signals. What are your clothes really saying? And more importantly, are they telling the truth you want people to hear?
To learn more about the Australian Style Institute, head here.
This article How ‘style signalling’ can help you manifest appeared first on Fashion Journal.
2025-06-17 11:58:00
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