Bold proportions define the CHANEL Fall Winter 25 collection

A powder pink carpet enveloped the floors of the Grand Palais — a familiar setting for the unveiling of the CHANEL Fall Winter 25 collection. Behind it, a classic black CHANEL of epic proportions, that coiled up towards the airy roof of the light-filled museum. With not long to go before incoming Creative Director Matthieu Blazy assumes his new role, this latest collection was a playful tribute to classic House codes, each one reimagined with a surreal, dreamlike quality — in a swan song of the Creation Studio, before turning the page on an exciting new chapter.

Strings of pearls became larger than life, in oversized necklaces worn across the body like sashes, and singular supersized pearl clutches. The simple bow — a favourite of Coco Chanel — also featured heavily, whether lining the seam of a pair of leather trousers, encompassing cuffs, or sprouting from the neckline of a green knit. And the Camélia, another iconic CHANEL motif, took on new life, stitched into the plush fabric of a faux fur jacket or hanging like a pendant from a necklace.

This sense of scale was also felt in the use of layering throughout the collection. Micro shorts were overlaid by delicate, floor-skimming tulle; flouncy capes sat gently over shift dresses; and a sheer shirt draped effortlessly over satin trousers. A standout look featured a three-piece ensemble in grenadine tweed: a cropped jacket, a wrap skirt, and flowing flared trousers, in striking silhouette that played with contrast and fluidity.

As always, CHANEL’s footwear and accessories proved to be just as captivating. Miniaturised top-handle bags hung delicately from models’ fingers, small enough to hold little more than a lipstick, evoking a playful sense of scale. At the opposite end of the spectrum, oversized clutches—some in tweed, others in glossy patent leather—were tucked elegantly beneath models’ arms, while elongated east-west clutches added further intrigue. Shoes, too, were exquisite in their detail: knee-high boots fastened with sumptuous satin bows, chunky CHANEL-coded sneakers layered with twee ruffled socks, and classic Mary Janes with a single pearl in place of the heel.

In its final collection under the guidance of the Creation Studio, CHANEL’s Fall Winter 25 show both a celebration of the House’s storied past, and its future potential. As the curtain falls on this era and Blazy prepares to take the reins, the collection leaves an indelible mark—one that will surely continue to inspire for seasons to come.