Lauren Di Bartolo is a fashion stylist and human behaviour expert based in Melbourne. An industry innovator and founder of Australian Style Institute, she has spent decades observing the relationship between people and their clothes. She’s a regular contributor to Fashion Journal, answering our burning style questions in her fortnightly column.
For many, finding an outfit for a special event can be stressful, especially if you need to buy something new. But it’s not always the clothes that create the most stress, it’s decoding the grey area of dress codes.
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If this sounds like you, you’re not alone. In 2025, traditional dress codes like ‘cocktail‘, ‘smart casual’ and ‘black tie’ have evolved, just like trends have (visions of my mint green, princess-style year 12 formal dress still haunt me today).
So what has changed? Fashion is more personal, gender-inclusive, and creative than ever, simply because we’re exposed to so many more styles. When it comes to finding something special, we’re more accustomed to loaning or hiring a special occasion outfit, willing to love it for a night and not a lifetime.
While we typically dress more casually as a society today, there’s still an art to hitting the right note between overdressed and underdone. Here’s my ultimate guide to understanding today’s dress codes, what they mean, what to wear, and how to shop smarter (or pull from your own wardrobe) with confidence.
But first: Structure and Flow
Something I teach my clients and students at Australian Style Institute is a concept I developed called ‘Structure and Flow’. If you think of ‘structure’ being an item such as a blazer or a tailored trouser and ‘flow’ being a silk top or a drawstring pant, we can use various combinations of structure and flow to address various dress codes.
Dress code: Cocktail
The current interpretation:
Cocktail today isn’t about stiff dresses or suits, it’s about looking like you’ve made an effort without trying too hard. It’s something dressier than what you’d probably wear to work.
What to wear:
A suit or dress are easy go-tos (note a mid-length dress immediately creates more formality than something shorter), and interesting textures like velvet, satin, or crepe can elevate a look. Tailored trousers and a blazer are also fail-safe (there’s no need for a full suit unless it’s been specified), and tonal or monochromatic looks are always good options.
What to avoid:
Denim, super casual cotton, or jersey fabrics can look too casual.
Sneakers can be hit and miss. If you’re wearing them, they should be clean, minimal, and be the most casual element of your outfit.
Don’t overdo it – no ballgowns or tuxedos.
Dress code: Smart Casual
The current interpretation:
Think dressed-up casual. You’re aiming for polish but without the structure of a suit. Elevated pieces that feel relaxed yet intentional are how to nail the ‘smart casual’ code.
What to wear:
You’re aiming for a combination of structure and flow. So, if you’re wearing jeans or a silk skirt, potentially add a blazer and heel. Other easy combinations include a midi-length skirt with a knit top, or a statement blouse with polished flats.
Other styles I’d recommend include button-up shirts worn with tailored trousers, a jacket paired with boots, loafers or clean sneakers. If your bottoms are casual, keep your top sharp (and vice versa).
What to avoid:
Too many colliding colours can take away from the ‘smart’ in smart casual if you’re on the more casual side. So consider variety in textures, such as leather with denim and silk with knits.
Avoid anything too sporty (gym gear is a no), overly distressed jeans or anything you’d lounge at home in.
Business Casual
The modern interpretation:
Professional but not corporate stiff. It’s about dressing like you take your work seriously, without looking like you’re trying too hard.
What to wear:
Structured blouses, blazers, midi skirts, tailored trousers and day dresses are all great femme styling options. Layering a lightweight jacket or cardigan can add polish instantly.
For something more masculine, try dress shirts, smart pants, optional blazers, leather shoes or minimalist sneakers in creative industries. Stick to neutral and muted tones with a pop of colour, if you like.
What to avoid:
No flip-flops, shorts, slogan tees, or anything you’d wear to brunch on a Sunday.
Dress code: Black Tie
The modern interpretation:
Formal, but with room for personality. It’s less ‘rules at all costs’ now and more about being beautifully dressed while respecting the occasion.
What to wear:
Femme styles include floor-length gowns, chic cocktail dresses (yes, cocktail length is acceptable now if dressy enough), statement heels or sophisticated flats. Masculine style include a classic tuxedo, or very sharp black or midnight navy suit with a bow tie or sleek tie.
Go big on accessories — sparkling jewellery, bold clutches and polished cufflinks are on code. Basically, dress as if you’re going somewhere truly special (because you are).
What to avoid:
No casual jackets, everyday shoes, or underdressing. It’s always better to be slightly overdressed here.
Dress code: White Tie (rare, but worth knowing)
The modern interpretation:
The most formal of all — think state dinners, royal events, the Met Gala if you’re lucky. Unless specified, most people today will not encounter this one often!
What to wear:
Floor-length evening gowns, opera gloves (optional now), impeccable accessories. For me, black tailcoats, white vests, white bow ties, and patent shoes.
General wardrobe tips to see you through any dress code
Invest in timeless pieces. A tailored blazer, versatile dress pants, and a flattering little black dress can cover almost any dress code with the right accessories and styling. To that point, accessories are your superpower: shoes, bags and jewellery can dress an outfit up or down dramatically.
Consider fabric: velvet, silk, and crepe instantly read more formal, while linen and jersey read more casual.
Own a go-to ‘in betweener’: a jumpsuit, wrap dress, or beautifully cut suit can be styled up or down easily, depending on the event.
Comfort still matters. Modern dress codes favour confidence and authenticity over strict formality. If you feel good, you’ll look even better.
The bottom line? Today’s dress codes are all about blending intention with individuality. The rules are looser — but being thoughtful with your outfit is the one timeless standard that never goes out of style.
To learn more about the Australian Style Institute, head here.
This article A Melbourne stylist explains dress codes (and when you can break them) appeared first on Fashion Journal.
2025-05-02 10:36:00
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