STUART VEVERS, the creative director of Coach, has spent the last decade shaping the New York fashion label’s identity into something undeniably cool — heritage-infused, a little scrappy, but always refined in a way that feels natural, not forced. And for the fall 2025 collection, presented recently at New York Fashion Week, he doubled down on that ethos to bring us a collection that felt vintage yet entirely modern.
Inside the grand, history-soaked Park Avenue Armory, models floated through a space that felt somewhere between an old-school warehouse and a dreamscape. Brooklyn indie pop band Nation of Language played live — because what’s a Coach show without a great soundtrack? — while the collection unfolded like a masterclass in controlled nostalgia. Think oversized skate-inspired pants that drag just enough, shrunken tees that feel like you cut them yourself, and outerwear that could have belonged to your effortlessly stylish aunt in the ’90s (or a very chic thrift store find).
Vevers isn’t just referencing the past — he’s literally repurposing it. Sustainability has been creeping more and more into Coach’s DNA, and this season, it took centre stage. Repurposed denim, vintage negligées-turned-eveningwear, and shearling trench coats that look like they’ve already lived a few lives gave the collection a soulful kind of richness. Even the handbags played along, with the Twin Pocket Bag stepping out from the archives and new renditions of the Brooklyn and Empire bags arriving in vegetable-tanned “Loved Leather” (a term that probably deserves its own explainer).
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The silhouettes were both familiar and unexpected: sweeping trenches, fuzzy slippers that channelled childhood nostalgia, and slouchy knits laced with a touch of Lurex sparkle. And yet, everything felt polished — like you were looking at the kind of wardrobe someone builds organically over time, rather than a straight-from-the-runway trend drop.
There was a quiet confidence in the styling: slinky drop-waist dresses rubbing shoulders with duffle coats, leopard print clashing with metallic knits, and ultra-baggy jeans grounding every look.
Coach’s accessories always deliver, but this season had a particularly playful streak. Toolbox-inspired jewellery turned everyday hardware into statement pieces (yes, that was a screwdriver charm), while the Soho Sneaker returned with new textures — Loved Leather, silver suede, and leopard print. And if there was ever a moment to embrace maximalism, it was with the beaded Times Square Tabby or the fuzzy, pom-pom-laced sneaker charms.
Coach’s strength has always been in making luxury feel lived-in—like something you can (and actually want to) wear every day. This season felt like an invitation to embrace the beauty of things that already have a story to tell. It was a love letter to classic American style, but with enough grit and subversion to keep things interesting. And honestly? That’s exactly what Coach does best.
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2025-02-14 06:47:00
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